Shamakhi

The town's landmark is the Juma Mosque, founded in 743 CE. That makes it one of the oldest mosque sites in the Caucasus and the second-oldest in the region after Derbent.

It has been destroyed and rebuilt many times — earthquakes in 1667, 1859, 1902 and 1918 among others. What stands today is a modern reconstruction on the historic footprint, with three domed prayer halls and twin minarets. The unusual three-hall layout is thought to follow the original eighth-century plan.

Shamakhi was the seat of the Shirvanshahs, one of the more durable dynasties in the Islamic world, before earthquake damage prompted the move to Baku in the fifteenth century — the move that produced the Palace of the Shirvanshahs.

The Yeddi Gumbaz, 'seven domes', are the ruined mausolea of the Shirvan khans on a hillside outside town. They are partly collapsed and atmospheric, and worth a short stop.

The hills around Shamakhi are Azerbaijan's principal wine-growing region. Viticulture here is ancient — archaeological evidence for winemaking in the wider region runs back thousands of years — though the modern industry was largely rebuilt after the Soviet anti-alcohol campaigns of the 1980s damaged it badly.

Wineries along this route offer tastings and tours, and they are a standard stop on the Shamakhi and Gabala day. The Valley & Vineyard package is built around exactly this combination.